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Day three Nanto-cho posted Wednesday, December 01, 2004
Day 3
The weather finally broke revealing the timeless beauty of Nanto-cho habour. Rumika`s uncle, a fisherman, was nice enough to take us on a tour of the habour on his fishing boat.
We got up at 11, ate breakfast, and walked down to the habour to meet her uncle. Expecting a large boat with a massive boom and pulley system, we came a cross a small 15-foot boat, painted bright blue and white. Contrary to my belief, I thought that most fishermen of this day and age fish with nets off the back of their boats. Not so! Rumika`s uncle catches all his fish by hand with a hook and lure. For a second, I felt like young Manolin watching the elderly Santiago casting his lure between his thumb and forefinger.
He took us around to his friends on other boats. We waved, and said good morning (ohayio gozaimasu) in our broken Japanese. He pointed out the different landmarks in the habour; like whale island, while his line constantly dragged behind. Rumika told us how whale island took its name from its obvious whale-like shape. During the summer every year, when the sun rises, it casts light through a huge opening at the front of the island, mimicing the opening of a massive eye.
Around the the habour bend, we kept stopping at the boats, saying hi, and waving. Most people seemed very excited and shocked to see foreigners. We stopped at one group of fishing boats which were anchored to a large bamboo grid. On the boats were older men and women who were cleaning oysters of seaweed and other algae. We asked what they were for and to our surprise they were the oysters used to cultivate Mikimoto pearls, the most famous cultivated pearls in the world. They had just been harvested, after two years of growth, to send to Pearl Island for their surgery. Cool! We came on board their small boat and took pictures with the elderly couple, shyly bowing and smiling.
For one a brief moment we felt a timelessness. We had entered a place few people ever see in Japan. A place that is almost as pure as it was 100 years ago. The experience left us breathless.
We returned to the habour, touring whale island and the large tanker ship loading concrete and gravel to transport to neighbouring cities. We stopped to wave at Rumika`s cousin, who now works on the large tanker, which was set to sail in the morning. We were dwarfed by it size. A small chill ran up my back. The thought came across me that her uncle`s profession was slowly dying out and that most young people depended on work from the large scale construction businesses that are seen throughout Japan.
Back at the wharf, Rumika`s uncle offered three fresh baracuda from his daily catch. He netted the still vibrant fish and with a small tap between the eyes knocked the life out of their bodies just long enough to remove their guts and scales. Tossing the guts over board he grabbed the still squirming fish and rinsed them in the saltwater tank below.
We said our goodbyes, by bowing graceously and waiving endlessly, as he sailed off to resume his hunt, this time for squid. Walking back to Rumika`s house we all remarked at how special the day had been. We were more aware than ever that we had experienced something most foreigners and natives would never have the opportunity to enjoy in Japan. We felt overwhelmed with graditude and thanked God that we were alive.
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 5 current comments...
Jacqui - 1/27/2005 I have changed jobs and lost your email, please send! Happy 30th Laura, hope you got my card.
My new email
jmitton@lomltd.com
Dad and Mom - 12/29/2004 Hi to you both,
Hope you got our birthday note in time Jonas and that yesterday was very relaxing and fun. It's not so easy to phone until we get back to Orinda on Monday
We're in Windsor CA, warm and sunny today. We've been sending emails to Vodafone as we wondered how you both are after the quake and the monumental tragedy. It's a miracle that Japan wasn't hit too. We'll call again really soon. I called Nancy Pal to wish everyone happiness for Chris and Sarah's wedding. She said it's -18 degrees at home. Maybe we'll try for 'landed immigrant' status here!!
Everyone here has colds and is coughing...we're in wine country today and going to a vineyard tomorrow. Wish we could all be together, but we think of you both 'aw de time' and send love and wishes for a Happy New Year's day with Rumika and her family. Please take care, enjoy yourselves and know that we love you very much. Uncle Bud and Auntie Orae are amazing hosts and we're seeing and doing lots. Love, Dad and Mom
Uncle Bud and Auntie Orae - 12/29/2004 We are at windsor with mum and dad and today the weather has given us a break so it is sunny and nice to be here.
Your pictures are lovely and I will try to check your web side from time to time. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!
Love A/Orae and U/ BUd
joe janettebingham - 12/10/2004 hi its been a few weeks since we left osaka, and we can see you are still discovering new places . we think you are going to give up teaching and be come tour guides. we had a great time over there ,osaka is amazing .but it was good to get out of for a wee while .and we would like to thankyou very very much to give up your time off to show us everything < you are a very speical couple> .so keep on discovering,and its good to read about tour trips where next? till the next time take care. ps i have a pair of white gloves.
Bridget - 12/7/2004 Hi Joe and Laura,
Both pictures and descriptions are truly breathtaking. How are you guys doing? I'm back at work. Katie turned one on November 29th. I can't believe how quickly the year has gone by. Hope to talk to you soon. You guys look great. I hope teaching is going well for you both. We love you.
Bridget, Mike, Sophie, Jacquie and Katie
oxoxoxoxoxo
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