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Mount Fuji posted Monday, August 16, 2004
*A wise man climbs Mount Fuji. Only a fool climbs it twice*, so the addage goes. We were soon to find out the impact of that expression as we embarked on our anniversary journey.
16 Nova instructors left from Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium at 7:00 Monday August 9th. Jonas, myself, Tara, Manuel, Kathryn, Stewart, Allan, Amanda, Matt, Christina, Emma, Jen, Peter, Ross, Sally, Marcus. Although we had a strong Canadian contingent, we also covered New Zealand, Spain, Australia and the UK. It was to be a Western world conquer of Japan's tallest mountain at 3,776m or 12,395 ft for those of you still imperically inclined. Either way, it's high, really really high. The preparations both mental and physical had begun, from cutting back on the daily pastry quotient, to mental fortitude, many weeks before. This was a long anticipated journey.
So we set out on our Kobe coach bus and stopped many times along the way for a stretch and meal break. Most of us opted for the hot food vending machine and tasted once frozen french fries - not too bad actually.
So our destination was Mount Fuji's fifth level. We took the Supairaru line to Kawaguchikoguchi. This was to be the starting point of our trek up the mountain at 2,305m.
After a short meal of a rice bowl with beef and cabbage salad, we began our ascent. We were tired from lack of sleep and a cramped bus ride, but we were ready. Psyched for the trip of a lifetime.
At 5:00pm, walking sticks in hand branded with the first of many stamps demarking our journey, we began the climb thinking we were in for an easy one. The first 2.5km of the hike are literally across the mountain, and our guide set an easy pace and stopped for rests often.
Our confidence was renewed; no altitude sickness yet, and no real climbing yet. We were soon to find out that one issue with climbing a dormant volcano is that the lava rock and dust are very maleable and slippery, so there were times when we slid back half of every step we took. It made for slow going at points.
As the sun set in the West we hit the 6th level of the mountain and took in the view. We looked down on clouds and the distant horizon where Tokyo, Yokohama, and crescent-shaped Lake Yamanaka lay in the distance.
Most rest stops along the way have washroom facilities, were due to the lack of running water and sewage facilities, they recommend a 100 yen donation. These facilities are built literally on the side of cliffs. They are part of small rest huts and compounds housing beds and benches for weary travellers. Each stop has it's own branding iron marking the level, altitude and name of the facility. They also sell water, tea, and snacks - but the prices are double or tripple the price at sea level, so it was a good thing we were well prepared.
There were times we stopped between huts on the path upward. We were beyond the point of having foliage on the mountain side, where there may have been nice trees to rest against with roots to sit on. We were just to high up a volcano for any other living things to brave it except for crazy humans. So since lava rock isn't the most comfortable, we often stood to rest, anxious to keep moving onward and upward.
In speaking with experienced climbers, and as I've already mentioned, altitude sickness is certainly a concern. I preemptively took some Tylenol, we had cans of oxygen on hand and plenty of water. As we climbed the air got thinner, and we literally walked through the clouds. The sun went down on the 9th of August and we tredged forward.
The seventh level was a welcome sight and we felt we were making progress. The only issue with this, is that there are many huts at different heights considered part of the seventh level, so our perception of progress started to wane.
The silver lining of this was that alough night climbing is difficult, the stars were spectacular, seemingly so close. Shooting stars darted across the sky and below at ground level, there was a fireworks display seeming so small. In the distant horizon, a lightening storm lit up the sky adding an atmosphere of excitement and anticipation.
Night climbing is fun, and much cooler, but also more difficult. There are parts of the ascent where one must find foot holds and hand holds and scale the rock. There are chains burrowed into the rock for hand holds in some places, but mostly one is left to his/her own devices. Jonas shone our light for me mostly, because with slippery gloves on and a walking stick in one hand, I just couldn't manage to hold onto my own flashlight. Jen and Emma were discussing ways to distract the mind while climbing and listed the many thoughts trailing through their minds.
Finally we reached our rest hut, Hakuunso, at the 8th level. What a welcome sight it was. Here we were to sleep for a few hours before the remaining 600m climb to the summit. It's confusing to one's system to be so excited to have a goal within reach, and be adrenaline filled, but at the same time experience physical and mental exhaustion. Here we were led to long rows of futons side to side, one on top of the other where weary hikers are sardined into rows to sleep before the remaining trek to the top. I don't think many of us slept much, and at 2am after some O2 inhalation, and a gel pack of vitamins, we pushed on for the break of dawn.
At our second last rest along the path upward which got steeper and steeper as we rose, Allan and Amanda stole away from the group (who were not meant to 'overtake': guides rules), as Kathryn and Stewart had hours before, to try to beat the crowds clammering up the last few meters to the top. Jonas and I were about to do the same when our guide opted to take a short cut up the descention path for the last few meters. By this point the anticipation of sunrise grew and grew as did my anxiety level to proceed onward. The curved horizon grew more and more light with the purply pink hues of a new day. Where we to make it in time to see the projected 4:50am sunrise?
YES YES YES.
The morning of our second anniversary, we watched the sunrise from the most beautiful vantage point on the top of Mount Fuji. 3.776 meters above sea level, the tallest and most sacred of Japan's mountains. This was the experience of a lifetime, and we had made it along with our friends.
Amongst weary, anticipatory, and grateful onlookers, we gazed Eastward towards the clouds on the horizon, watching the first peeks of the orange-pink orb of the sun. A chorus greeted the dawning of a new day with an "Ohaiyo Gozaimasu" and cheers of sheer joy. We beemed with pride. What a way to start our third year of marriage?!
After peering over the edge of the 100m deep crater of the dormant volcanoe, having our walking sticks branded with the summit marks, and making some calls home to parents and families (can you believe it?), we met up with our group for the descent.
Our worst fears were over, after being so unsure of my physical ability to endure the climb, we had made it to the summit and the hard part was over. Climbing down should be a snap - right??? NOT it turns out. It never occurred to us that the descent would be the most difficult part of the journey.
Some of our colleagues made it down in 1.5-2 hours, but we took 3 hours. The path downward is so steep and mushy with dust and rubble that ever step was an wobbly, slippery slide downward. The strain on the knees and other generally unused leg muscles was just too much, and with each turn down the zig zag path, more agony ensued. Soon the exhilaration of the summit was overridden with pain and exhaustion. When we finally made it to the 2.5 km trek across the mountain, anxious relief spilled over, but that hike across we thought was so easy as we began the day before, felt like a million miles.
Finally the clearing of the fifth level and waiting tour busses came into view and relief.
From here a small group of us, who had opted to forego the bath, shower and buffet at a local golf resort, ended up at Lake Kawaguchi which we had seen from the mountain. Jonas, Ross and I took the 25 minute boat tour on the Ensoleil of the lake and could just make out the edges of the great mountain we had just climbed in the distance. It is a beautiful and serene lake and the fresh water breeze was rejuvenating.
At last, homeward, and triuｍｐh! The stiffness which abated over the next few days was a small price to pay for the experience of a lifetime.
What a trip.
To quote Jonas' dad Sean, we'll "have to climb Everest to top this anniversary".
Indeed.
Total Climb Time 6.5 hours
Total Down Time 3 hours
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 8 current comments...
Chris - 11/15/2004 Wow, your pictures are simply amazing guys. Very cool
Alyce MIntz - 10/24/2004 Wonderful pictures you have taken to share with all. Thanks Alyce
Taryn - 8/23/2004 Hi,
You look so happy, it is so nice to see! Love you, Taryn
marie et gemma - 8/23/2004 Félicitations! We have been reading your Fuji summit story from the beautiful Saguenay . The pictures are fantastic and the account really brings home what a challenge the climb was. I'm sure you'll take this experience with you forever. Lots of love from Gemma and Tom and Marie and Amélie and Madeleine from the land of the blueberry !! We saw Jonas' cousin Marc yesterday in Québec city. He says a big hello too!!!xoxoxoxox
Jacqui - 8/23/2004 Way to go!
Love J
Dad - 8/21/2004 Laura and Jonas:
Quite an impressive journey to the highest point in Japan -- Mount Fuji-san --
A memorable journey indeed, something to reminisce with friends and family, later . Your journal is not only, most desriptive but it captures the spirit of your journey to the top of Mount Fuji, on your Second Wedding Anniversary . With much love Dad
Dad - 8/21/2004 Laura and Jonas:
Quite an impressive journey to the highest point in Japan -- Mount Fuji-san --
A memorable journey indeed, something to reminesce later with with friends and family. Your journal is not only most desriptive but it captures the spirit of your journey on your Second Anniversary to the top of mt Fuji.
joe janette bingham - 8/19/2004 well done to you all a great effort you should be proud of yourselves .great photos and story we saw our son allan in one of your photos he looked shattered we suppose you all were it must have be a hell of a climb . we would like to wish you a happy anniversary and when we come out to japan in november we hpoe to maybe have a wee drink with you all .take care and all the best joe and janette
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